Mountaineering In Uttarakhand

  • Post last modified:6 January 2023
  • Reading time:9 mins read

What is Mountaineering?

Mountaineering is the sport of climbing mountains, especially those that are high and difficult to ascend. It involves a variety of activities, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and glacier travel. Mountaineers may use a variety of techniques and equipment to ascend a mountain, including ropes, carabiners, ice axes, crampons, and other specialized gear.

Mountaineering can be a physically and mentally challenging activity that requires a high level of fitness and technical skill. It is important for mountaineers to be well-prepared and to have a good understanding of mountain weather and hazards.

There are different types of mountaineering, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and alpine climbing. Rock climbing involves ascending cliffs or other rocky features using handholds and footholds. Ice climbing involves ascending cliffs or other features of ice using ice axes and crampons. Alpine climbing involves ascending high mountains that may involve a combination of rock, ice, and snow climbing.

Mountaineering can be a thrilling and rewarding activity, but it can also be very dangerous. It is important for mountaineers to be aware of the risks and to be properly trained and equipped to handle them.


Different Schools of Mountaineering

The credit for developing mountaineering goes to the European nations to whom the European Alps served as an amphitheatre for developing the alpine style of climbing. Alpine style is basically climbing in pairs and climbing in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying own food, shelter, equipment etc. without the assistance of the porters.

The other school of mountaineering is the Himalayan style of mountaineering. As in Himalayas, the peaks ranges from 6000m to above 8000m. and the approach itself takes a number of days to establish base camp. So in mountains like this any mountaineering expedition requires a number of days to make a summit attempt. It requires a lot of logistic supply and manpower.


Mountaineering in Uttarakhand

History and Growth

The History of mountaineering in Kumaun and Garhwal dates back to as early as 1907 when on 12th June Dr. T.G. long staff and three others reached the summit of Trishul (7120 m).

In 1936, a Japanese team from the Rikkyo University /Mountaineering Club climbed Nanda Kot (6861 m).

In 1938 an Austro-German team under Prof. R. Schwarzgruber made a number of attempts of different peaks of Gangotri valley. The first ascents were made of Bhagirathi II, Chandra Parbat, Mandani Parbat, Swachhand and Sri Kailas.

In 1939, two other expeditions summit Dunagiri and Nanda Devi East. The last expedition under British rule in India took place in 1947 when the Swiss team made summit of Mt. Kedarnath (6940 m). Two successful ascents were made on Trishul in 1951.

J.B. Tyson of Oxford University led a small expedition to the Gangotri group of peaks in 1952 and succeeded in climbing Gangotri I and III. The same year, French Expedition reached the summit of Chaukhamba I and New Zealand expedition climbed the Mukut Parbat.

Since then number of expeditions (foreign and Indian) visit Uttarakhand Himalayas to climb in different mountaineering seasons, which are pre and post-monsoon seasons.

The Nehru Institute of Mountaineering in Uttarkashi is providing excellent training facilities to rock climbers and mountaineers.


List of Mountain Peaks in Uttarakhand

The Uttarakhand have around ninety peaks open for mountaineers. The Uttarakhand Tourism Development Board is the nodal agency for the promotion of mountaineering and allied activities for various mountaineering destinations of Uttarakhand.

PeaksCheck PostPeaksCheck PostPeaksCheck Post
Arwa spire 6193JoshimathJogin I 6465BhairoghatiNilkantha 6597Joshimath
Arwa Tower 6352JoshimathJogin II 6363BhairoghatiPanch Chuli 6349Munsiyari
Dharchula
Abigamin 7354JoshimathJogin III 6116BhairoghatiPanwari Dwar 6663Song
Baljuri 5922BageshwarKalanag/Black Peak 6387BarkotRataban 6126Joshimath
Barmal 5880JoshimathKalanka 6931JoshimathRonti 6063Joshimath
Banderpunch 6316Barkot, UttarkashiMandir ParbatJoshimathRudragaira 5819Kankhu
Banderpunch West/White peak 6102BarkotLamkhaga 5764BhatwariSaifee 6167Kankhu
Bhagirathi I 6856KankhuKamet 7756JoshimathSatopanth 7075Joshimath
Bhagirathi II 6512KankhuKedar Dome 6830KankhuShivling 6543Kankhu
Bhagirathi III 6454KankhuKedar Nath 6940KankhuSrikanth 6133Bhatwari, Taknor
Bhanoti 5645SongKharch Kund 6632KankhuSudarshan Parbat 6507Bhatwari, Taknor
Bhartekhunt 6578KankhuKirti Satambh 6285KankhuSujtilla 6543Munsiyari
Bhrigupanth 6772Bhairav Ghati KankhuKirti Bandar 6895JoshimathSwachhand 6721Kankhu
Changabang 6866JoshimathLampak 6181JoshimathSwargarohini I 6252Joshimatha
Chhanguch 6322JoshimathLaspa Dhura 5895JoshimathSwargarohini II 6248Joshimath
Chaukhamba I 7138Kankhu JoshimathLittle (Adi) Kailash 6321DharchulaSwargarohini III 6209Joshimath
Chaukhamba II 7070Kankhu JoshimathMaiktoli 6803BageshwarSwargarohini IV 5966Joshimath
Chaukhamba III 6995Kankhu JoshimathMana 7273JoshimathThalayasagar 6984Kankhu
Chaukhamba IV 6854Kankhu JoshimathManda 6568KankhuTharkot 6099Song
Deoban 6820JoshimathMeru WestKankhuThelu 6000Kankhu
Drongagiri 6489JoshimathMeru South 6660KankhuTrishul I 7120Ghat
Ganesh Parbat 6535JoshimathMeru North Mrigthana 6450KankhuTrishul II 6680Ghat
Gangotri I 6672KankhuMrigthuni 6855KankhuTrishul III 6315Ghat
Gangotri II 6590KankhuMukut Parbat 7242JoshimathTrishul West 7035Munsiyari
Gangotri III 6577KankhuMukut Parbat East 7120JoshimathVasuki Parbat 6792Kankhu
Gori Parbat 6601JoshimathNanda Devi East 7434Munsiyari
Hardoel 7161MunsiyariNanda Ghunti 6309Ghat
Hathi Parbat 6727JoshimathNanda Kot 6861Song
Jaonli 6632BhatwariNanda Ghat 6545Song

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